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What’s Bugging You?
Most pest control companies in San Antonio treat every home exactly alike – not JitterBug Best Pest Services! We listen to our clients’ needs and inspect their homes to determine the most effective course of action. We are the most affordable pest control company servicing San Antonio and the surrounding cities. See what our clients have to say on our Testimonies and be sure to use one of our Pest Control Coupons to save money.
If you’re unsure of what type of pest or bug is creeping you out – please give us a call. We know all about Texas creepy crawlers and our wildlife. We trap and release any wildlife and can typically help you over the phone when it comes to trouble shooting any bug invasion. Select a bug below to learn more about our pest control services.
ant control san antoniobee wasp removal san antonioflea and tick control san antoniomosquito controlroach controlTermite Control San AntonioRodent Wildlife trapping ServiceSpider Extermination
It’s coming on to winter San Antonio. Just like you want to cuddle up under a blanket or by a warm fire, so do many of our furry friends. We’ve …Read Full Article »
3 Reasons Why DIY Stands For Doesn’t Make Sense
3 Reasons Why DIY Stands For Doesn’t Make Sense
Time, Poisons, and the Environment We freely admit, it’s possible to never use a pest control service or an exterminator, and live bug free. However, there are quite a few …Read Full Article »
BBB Accredited Pest Control San Antonio SAN ANTONIO pest control
General Information about Ants-
Ants are much more than a possible biting nuisance. They can cause millions of dollars in damage to structures each year. They can tunnel through wood, bite, strip insulation from electrical wires; causes short-circuits or fires, and also contaminate food. Because there are countless varieties of ants, we will discuss the common ones in Central Texas. Baits are generally the most effective treatment for getting rid of ants.
General Information about Carpenter Ants-
The carpenter ant does not eat wood. They eat protein and sugar like most ants. Their only interest in wood is to tunnel and live in it.
They are foragers and farmers. They get live Aphids and milk them for honeydew. Once an aphid doesn’t produce anymore, they eat them.
There is only one queen per colony. She lays 15-20 eggs every 15 days.
At Jitterbug, we normally find them by their frass (substance kicked out of tunnels including wood chavings and feces).
You will not see them during daylight hours generally
As with most ants, carpenter ants are most easily eradicated with bait treatments. Since the mound cannot be located, generally treatment requires the ants to take the bait and feed the colony and the queen. After the queen dies, the colony dies also. It usually requires two treatments two weeks apart to rid a structure of carpenter ants.
Red Imported Fire Ants:
General Information about Red Imported Fire Ants-
Red Imported Fire Ants nest in the soil and build a mound nests.
They can infest buildings through garages, doorways, weep holes, and cracks on the slab.
They build large mound nests and can sting humans.
They can eat dead animals, insects, earthworms, and sweets.
They can survive in extreme conditions and temperatures as low as 16 degrees. During droughts they dig to the water table. During floods, they gather on a raft, with the queen in the middle, and find dry land.
As with most ants, baits made specifically for the species of ants that it is intended for, are the most effective. The worker ants take the bait to the queen and the colony quickly dies. Contact sprays and granules only offer temporary reprieve, as the queen continues to churn out eggs.
General Information about Acrobatic Ants-
Acrobatic ants get their name from their ability to acrobatically raise their abdomen over their thorax and head when disturbed.
They are often, even by less-informed pest control professionals, mistakenly identified as Carpenter Ants.
Acrobatic ants are typically feed on honeydew. The sugar waste excreted by aphids and mealybugs, but they also eat live and dead insects.
The habitat, generally, under rocks or in logs, firewood, trees where wood decay allows them to create tunnels. They also build their nests in the eaves of homes. They often trail from tree limbs and utility lines and enter through cracks, holes, window frames, soffits, door thresholds and wood areas softened by water damage.
They can bite and pose risks to prosperities.
Specific Acrobatic bait products are the most effective. If the nest is originating from outside, but they are trailing into a property. A repellent spray can be used in conjunction with bait products.
General Information about Crazy Ants-
Crazy Ants get their name by the workers habit of running in an erratic, jerky manner when searching for food.
These ants feed on live and dead insects, seeds, fruits, and honeydew.
They typically enter homes in the autumn or after rainfall because both conditions reduce their supply of honeydew.
Indoors they usually nest under flooring or carpeting.
Outdoors they generally nest in soil under objects or nest to foundations.
Bait repellant, and contact kill products are all effective.
General Information about Pharaoh Ants-
They are usually small, 1/16’ long.
They tend to nest in warm, hard, to reach places like walls, subfloors, wall sockets, attics, cracks and crevices.
They can enter from outdoors or be carried in as hitch hikers on packages, boxes, and, etc.
Pharaoh ants eat other insects, but prefer meat and greases. They can also feed on sugars, fruit juices, and sweets.
Because Pharaoh ants have a “knack” for getting into things, they can transmit multiple pathogens especially in hospitals.
Jitterbug uses baits to treat Pharaoh ants. They are placed in areas where ants are active, but where they are in accessible to children and pests. It is important that you do not wash the area where baits are placed so that the worker ant can take the bait back to the queen.
The above describe ants are the most common found in our area. There are several other species like: Odorous house, Argentina, Pavement, and so on, but all can be treated with bait contact and repellant products. Please consult our insect library to help you identify ants but know that, we at Jitterbug, can get rid of them for you.
Bee / Wasp Removal
Most species of concern to man have yellow and black coloring; 7/16 to 5/8 inch long; appear to have hairy bodies.
Live in colonies of from 20,000 to 80,000 individuals; will leave humans alone if not provoked.
Nectar and pollen.
Only one egg-laying queen in a hive; queen may live as long as five years and lay as many as 1500 to 2000 eggs per day; worker females protect eggs and the young; drones’ only duty is to mate with queen, after which they die.
Stings can be painful, but are harmless to most people
Large, about one inch, resemble bumblebees; some species may have a blue-black, green or purple metallic sheen; no hair on abdomen.
Often burrow into the exposed, unfinished dry wood of buildings,telephone poles, fence posts and bridges; prefer softer woods for nesting; not social insects, although individuals may establish burrows close to each other.
Pollen and nectar.
Complete one generation per year in most of the U.S.; mature from egg to adult in 84 to 99 days; female furnishes nest with “bee bread,” a mixture of pollen and regurgitated nectar, and lays an egg on top of it.
Males do not sting, but females have a potent sting which they rarely use; make loud buzzing noise when flying.
Up to 5/8 inch long; reddish-brown and black with paler, orange- yellow rings on abdomen; two pairs of wings.
Very social; hive in hollow trees and in hives kept by beekeepers; pollinate crops and produce honey.
Adults drink nectar and eat honey.
Queen lays eggs at intervals, producing colonies of 60,000 to 80,000 members; life span is usually two to three years for the queen; drones die after mating.
Workers have a stinger that is used when colony is threatened; members of hive pass food to one another mixed with saliva to form a chemical bond.
roachGeneral Information about Cockroaches
Cockroaches pose a serious threat to human health. They emit allergens that worse asthma symptoms and transmit pathogens that may lead to diseases and ailments. Cockroaches are also loathed by people and invoke a stigma that creates the perception that infested homes and businesses are dirty and disgusting. Also, they reproduce quickly (30-40 nymphs every 80 days) and leave feces in corners, cracks, and crevices.
Baits: We apply baits that are carefully placed in areas that people cannot access (unless purposely done so). Baits use the “domino effect,” a delayed action kill that allows foraging cockroaches to take bait back to the colony- wherever it may be hidden. The residual effectiveness last up to one year unless all the bait is consumed. Baits are the idea choice due to their effectiveness and the ability to be placed in sensitive areas.
Residual Contact Sprays-
We apply residual contact sprays that can be used as crack and crevice, spot or broad cast applications indoors and around the outside of structures. They are also broad spectrum and will control a wide variety of pests including the targeted cockroach.
Insecticide dusts are effective tools that provide excellent penetration into cracks, crevices, and large voids. Dust applied properly in a thin layer will deliver a long, effective residual, even on porous surfaces, and make harborages uninhabitable by cockroaches for long periods of time.
A broad spectrum granular contact product is also an effectively solution for wide open spaces outdoors with visible cockroach activity, as well as hard-to-reach areas at the base of thick ground cover around the perimeter of structures.
The largest of the common cockroach species, about 1-1/2 inches long; reddish-brown wings with light markings on thorax.
Very aggressive; prefer warm, damp areas; more likely to beseen in daytime and outdoors than other species; fly more readily than other species.
Scavengers; feed on a variety of foods; prefer decaying organic matter.
Female needs to mate only once to produce many egg capsules; each capsule contains an average of 13 eggs; nymphs molt 13 times, in about 600 days, before reaching maturity; can live up to 15 months.
Have shown a marked attraction to alcoholic beverages, especially beer; also known as the water bug.
About 5/8 inch long; wings have two brownish-yellow bands.
Nocturnal; can fly; may be found throughout any structure, but prefer dry, warm areas, high locations, and inside furniture.
Scavengers; eat a variety of foods, but prefer starches.
Female carries egg capsule for 24 to 36 hours, then attaches it underneath or on the side of a protected surface; capsules contain an average of 18 eggs; nymphs reach maturity in an average of 161 days;
adults live up to 10 months.
Sometimes confused with German cockroach; frequently transported in furniture; not as dependent on moisture as other species.
About 5/8 inches long; light to medium brown, with two dark longitudinal streaks on the thorax.
Nocturnal; most common urban cockroach; often found around buildings; can be found outdoors during warm months.
General feeder; particularly attracted to fermented food.
Females produce one egg capsule every 20 to 25 days; each capsule contains from 18 to 48 eggs; newly born become adults in as little as 36 days; adults can live up to one year.
Often found aboard ships; widest distribution of all roaches in U.S.
Dark brown, about one inch long.
Common outdoors; tend to live near the ground and in warm, damp areas; most often found indoors in high moisture areas, particularly basements and ground-floor storage areas.
Scavengers; often eat decaying organic matter; prefer starches if available.
Egg capsules contain 16 eggs; female will produce an average of eight capsules; nymphs go through seven molts before becoming adult, in about a year; adults can live up to 180 days.
Known also as water bugs or black beetles; more sluggish than other species; give off distinctive unpleasant odor.
Flea & Tick Control
General Information about fleas:
Fleas are not only a nuisance, but they can also pose serious health risks.
Fleas feed on the blood of warm blooded mammals, causing irritation, itching and can transfer diseases.
Fleas are wingless and have mouth parts adapted for piercing skin and sucking blood.
Fleas are dark colored and have long rear legs. So they can spring.
Fleas have a tough body with ability to withstand great pressure.
Fleas have four life cycles and adult fleas must feed on blood to be able to reproduce.
The flea population are as follows: 50% eggs. 35% larve, 10% pupae, and 5% adults.
Flea eggs are normally laid on the host and can easily fall off. Because of this, areas where the hosts sleeps becomes primary habitats.
Eggs take around two days to two weeks to hatch.
Larvae emerge from eggs and feed on organic material.
Larvae will pupate and weave a silken cocoon. They lie in this state until they receive a signal to emerge, like vibrations, heat and carbon dioxide. They can remain in the larvae state over winter.
Once the flea emerges, they seek a host. After a blood meal, a female flea can lay 5000 or more eggs in a lifetime (average 30-90 days)
General Information about ticks:
Ticks eat blood by a practice known as hematophagr. They Extract the blood by cutting a hole in the hosts epidermis, and inject a anticoagulant.
Ticks find their hosts by detection animals breathe and body odors, or by sensing body heat, moisture, and vibrations.
They cannot fly or jump.
They are arachnids and have 8 legs.
Jitterbug treatment plan:
Homeowners role before treatment-
Vacuum prior to treatment as the vibration will encourage pupation.
Inspect, vacuum, clean, wash areas where the pet spends most of its time (resting, sleeping, or sitting) areas like foot of the bed, in front of doors or windows, a favorite couch or chair, or in a pet bed.
Mow the grass and trim the edges of the home.
Rake and discard leaves.
Pick up foreign objects in the yard. Don’t water before we arrive.
Be prepared to leave the home for three hours or more after Jitterbug has treated the inside.
See a veterinarian and get your pet treated for fleas.
We use integrated pest management targeting fleas during at least two separate life stages (generally we will treat your home twice in a two week period).
We inspect for areas where the pet spends most of its time.
On the Exterior, we granulate with direct kill product on applicable areas.
We saturate applicable areas with a contact kill product in a conjunction with an integrated growth regulator (which prevents the development of immature stages.
On the Interior, we spray areas where the pet lives, moves, or walks on with a contact kill product with an IGR. We also fog the inside of the home with a similar product.
Due to the flea/tick life cycle, a second treatment is necessary to eradicate fleas. Eggs can hatch, and pupae can develop after the first treatment making it essential for a follow-up treatment to take place
About 1/8 to 1/4 inch long; brown to dark brown with light stripe down center; wings have dark brown scales.
Often found near shallow temporary pools; larvae live in quiet bodies of water, ranging from fluid-filled leaves to stagnant pond-sand lakes. Prefer to live in damp, warm areas; can be found outdoors in grass or leaves, and in areas where molds grow.
Males drink plant juices; females feed on blood of mammals, including humans.
Eggs are dropped in temporary pools; larvae feed, pupate and emerge over an extended period.
Population increases after summer rains; males do not bite.
Rodent & Wildlife Trapping & Exclusion
General Information about rodents-
It is a common misconception that rodents only invade a building during the winter months. The fact is that they can enter at any time of the year.
Skunks and armadillos are typically around dwellers and rarely invade attics.
Possums, Raccoons, Squirrels, rats and mice can inhabit both, but often invade attics.
Most rodents are most active during the night due to poor eye sight and keeping away from predators. Squirrels are active from 6-9 am and 6-9 pm, but can also be active at night.
Besides damaging the exterior of the building in order to gain access inside, rodents deposit feces and urine in their new found habitat. In addition, they chew wood, insulation, and wires creating a fire hazard.
Rodents enter for a variety of reasons: To obtain safety from the predators, to have their young, and to have a ready-made chewable wood or other items source.
Rodents transport pathogens, fleas, contaminants, and just in general several other nasty by-products.
General information about Raccoons-
Weigh 18-23 lbs and are 24-38’ in length
Front toes are extremely dexterous
Has great touching skills
A raccoon will eat almost anything but common foods are fruits, plants, nuts, berries, rodents, frogs, crawfish, and garbage.
Raccoons are nocturnal, foraging and feeding at night.
Mating season is between January and June. Females generally give birth to 2-5 kits (baby raccoons) in the spring.
Raccoons can carry fleas and ticks, round worm, trichinosis, and rabies.
Trapping generally involves three trips in the span of about two weeks, but can require more trips over a longer period of time.
The first step is to identify the rodent by the characteristics it leaves behind. Like feces, trails, claw marks, grease marks, entry openings, and hair left behind.
The second step is to close the entry points so the raccoon can no longer come and go in to or out of the building.
The third step is to remove the trapped rodents and reset more live traps.
The last step involves checking the entry point to be sure it’s intact, making sure there is no more activity and removing the live traps.
Babies are as small as honeybees and get in mothers pouch immediately.
Can give birth to as many as 20 babies in a litter.
Opossums eat almost anything. They are scavengers and raid garbage cans. They eat nuts, fruit, grass, mice, and birds.
They are excellent climbers and spend a lot of their time aloft.
A skunks spray is an oily liquid produced by glands under it’s tail.
The skunk turns around to blast it’s foe with a foul mist that can travel as far as 10 feet.
Most skunks are cat-sized.
Usually black and white.
Skunks don’t climb very well and nests in burrows.
Each female gives birth to between two and ten young each year.
They eat fruit, plants, insects, larvae, worms, eggs, reptiles, small mammals, and even fish.
Squirrels have four front teeth that never stop growing so they gnaw constantly.
Tree squirrels are terrific climbers but come to the ground to eat nuts, acorns, berries, flowers, bark eggs, baby birds.
Female squirrels typically give birth to eight offspring per delivery and may have several babies per year.
Common facts about mice:
Body is small, pear shaped, 5 to 10 oz.
Color usually is grayish/brown
Droppings pointed ends and about 6 inches in length
Food preference is seeds, cereal grains, fruits, vegetables, and meats
Their habits include being great climbers; explore less than 30’ of home range. They are nocturnal. Most activity between ½ hour after sunset and ½ hour before sunrise.
Reproduction- sexually active 5-8 weeks after birth.
Female mice reproduce 8 times in life span with 4-7 pups up to 56 groups annually.
Common facts about Roof rats: (the most common in our area)
Body 6-12 inches.
Able to gnaw through wood, lead, aluminum, copper, and some concrete
Whiskers- since it has poor eyesight, whiskers help to stay safely against walls, under objects, and in burrows. They are used to detect motion and test surfaces, like glue traps, to avoid them.
Tail- longer than head and body
Droppings- pointed ends and are about ½ inches in length. A roof rat averages 30-180 droppings per day.
Habits- able to swing, jump, climb, and usually nest in the upper portions of buildings. May nest in trees or vegetation. Nocturnal. Most activity occurs between ½ hour before sunrise.
Food preferences- omnivores, meats, fish, flour, cereal grains, fruits, and vegetables. Eat up to one ounce per day and up to one ounce of water per day.
Similar to mice.
Very similar to Roof rat except ears are smaller and the body is larger. Tail is shorter, prefers lower areas (like basements) but will climb to higher areas and feces is blunt on both ends.
Jitterbug’s Eliminating Process for Rodents:
Interview clients for sightings and sounds.
Perform a thorough inspection of the premises.
Think three dimensionally, looking high and low.
Identify interior and exterior problem areas like runways, nests, feeding sites, water supplies, burrows, harborages, pipes outlets and inlets, holes, cracks, and gnaw marks on the structure.
We look for runaways, droppings, odor, urine, gnaw marks, rub marks, tracks, scratches in wood, and areas that upset pets.
The best way to keep buildings rodent free is to prevent them from getting inside. Mice can get through areas approximately the size of a dime, while rats the size of a quarter. Other rodent entry points like raccoons and opossums need considerably larger openings to gain entry.
We patch openings with rodent proof materials if the area is patchable.
Sanitization is important to rodent control.
Trim Weeds and keep grass short.
Clean up food waste.
Store food 12-15” off the floor and 12-18” away from the wall for easy inspection and sanitization. Use rodent proof containers.
Allow 24 inch aisles between stored materials for improved sanitization and inspection.
Screen dumpster drainage holes with a hardware cloth.
Don’t leave pet food out overnight and clean up pet droppings daily.
Eliminate rodent water sources.
Clean up windfall fruits, nuts, and bird feeder spillage daily.
Jitterbug’s Control Program:
Examine Foundation looking for cracks, mud tubes, soil grades, and conducive conditions.
Check the soil.
Check roof eaves and gutters for leakage and eventful wood rot.
Look for earth-to-wood contact.
Look in the exterior electrical meter or fuse box.
Inspect foreign wood materials.
Look for water damage areas.
Look for crack.
Check floor coverings.
Examine plumbing areas.
Post Construction Treatment:
Termicides are applied to all soil areas along the slabs or pier and beams.
Foam treatment may be necessary in void areas in walls, around fire places, under slabs or in soil filled porches.
Plumbing voids should also be treated with liquid or foam termicide products.
Baiting treatments may also be used in conjunction or as an alternative to soil applied termiticide. This system takes advantage termite food sharing behaviors.
Pre- Construction Treatment:
Treating the soil with termiticides can protect a structure for years.
Termiticides are applied to the soil before the slab is poured.
Termiticides are also applied to plumbing penetrations.
With every termite treatment applied by Jitterbug, a guarantee is attached.
The structure treated is guaranteed to be termite free for one year or Jitterbug will treat it again at no charge.
This warranty is renewable every year for as long as you own the structure at a nominal fee.
SUBTERRANEAN TERMITESubterranean Termites:
Termites are social insects with a highly organized castle system.
Subterranean termites usually live outside the home in underground nests.
Subterranean termites use moisture in the earth to survive.
Since Subterranean termites also need cellulose, they often tunnel into nearby homes to get it.
Some other termites (like Drywood and Formosan) don’t need contact with the earth to survive.
The presence of termites may not be readily noticed because activity is hidden behind wall boards or wood trim.
Termites live in every state except Alaska.
A termite colony has three forms or castles: reproductive’s, workers, and soldiers
Subterranean swarmers are seen as they are sent out from a colony to mate and start a new colony. Their bodies are coal black to pale yellow brown. The wings, if attached, will be pale or smoky gray to brown and distinct vein patterns.
Subterranean termite workers make up the largest population and do all the work. They are wingless and are a white to creamy color. They forage for food, feed the other castles, groom the queen, and maintain and build tunnels and shelter tubes.
Soldiers resemble workers in color and general appearance, except they have well developed brownish heads with strong mandibles or jaws. They defend the colony against invaders.
After 2-4 years a colony is mature and produces swarmers. Swarmers may be seen in Texas between January and May.
Signs of infestation can be difficult to detect. Swarmers, mud tubes, and damaged wood are ways to determine an infestation. Here are some ways to determine infestation:
Small holes in wood.
Mud tunnels or tubes that run along the foundation.
Damage to drywall surface.
Swarming termites outside the home or inside the home.
Dead swarmers and wings.
Soft, “squishy” feeling in floors, baseboards, walls, or ceilings.
Spider & Scorpion Exterminator
BLACK WIDOW SPIDERBLACK WIDOW SPIDER
Female is 1/2 inch long; shiny black, with hourglass-shaped red mark on underside of abdomen.
Can be found almost anywhere, indoors or out; prefer to build their nests close to the ground.
Insects trapped in web made by female.
Contrary to popular belief, female is usually unsuccessful in any attempt to eat male after mating; 300 to 400 eggs are laid in silken cocoon, hatch in about ten days.
Black widows are not aggressive, and will not bite unless provoked; bites are poisonous, but rarely fatal; if bitten, seek medical attention.
BROWN RECLUSE SPIDER:
Yellowish to brown, with a dark brown violin-shaped dorsal marking; 5/8 to 1/2 inch long.
Can be found outside under rocks, leaves, debris, bark, woodpiles, utility boxes; found inside in storage areas such as closets, attics, bedrooms; usually found close to the ground.
Cockroaches, crickets and other soft-bodied insects.
Mating occurs from Feb. to Oct.; 40 to 50 eggs are deposited in off-white, round silken cases; lifetime averages from one to two years.
Bites when disturbed; bites can cause a disfiguring scar.
General Pest Control
Procedures Identifying Problems
Procedures to identifying and solving pest problems.
Observe and inspect the property for conducive conditions (conditions that provide harborage or that pests prefer vegetation, mulch beds, etc.)
Identify the pests that are causing the problem and identify ways to prevent the cause of the problem.
Look for ways to correct the conditions that are causing the problem to proliferate. (id. structural problems, entry points and sanitation improvement possibilities)
Choose the best method or methods to help alleviate the conditions that are providing pest the opportunity to invade like failed door sweeps, openings around dryer vents, thresholds not sealed..etc.
Initial Treatment Procedures
We first analyze the information given to us by our client by:
Listening to our clients’ pest issues and then analyze, and inspect the property.
Identifying real and potential pest problems.
Choosing the best method to rectify or prevent the pest problem.
Performing Control Methods:
Exterior treatment also known as Primary Barrier Treatment includes structure and yard.
We use a Webster brush and pole to remove spider webs and wasp nests.
We treat weep holes with an insect dust retardant.
We granulate all impervious surfaces.
We apply liquid products on the lawn, flower beds and shrubs.
We apply liquid products around entry points (ie. windows, doors, eaves and slabs)
We use granular bait on ant mounds or interior secondary barriers.
We apply product along the crack/crevice between the baseboard and floor.
We apply around windows sills and where the walls meet up to the ceiling.
We bait for pest that require it.
We fog the attic with a “green” product repellant.
We place insect monitors at the entry points where the garage door shuts.
Solving Pest Problems
At Jitterbug, we believe that pest control (no matter the type of pest) involves a system that relies on effective, environmentally sensitive and a common sense approach.
We combine comprehensive pest information with available control methods to manage pest problems with the least possible hazard to people, property and the environment.
Consider us, like visiting a doctor.
To prescribe treatment, a doctor must correctly diagnose the problem and determine the extent of the problem as well as the potential of the problem worsening without treatment.
Now the doctor must then use this information, along with applicable treatments available for that particular condition.
In Pest Control, we call this process, “Integrated Pest Management”, the foundation of a successful pest control.
While many other companies simply spray the exterior and call the problem solved, we use informed, educated, caring employees to identify and solve pest problems.
Using “IPM”, we first identify the pest and gather information about the clients’ concerns.
By the way, you don’t have to have an infestation in order to call us.
Prevention is even more important that solving the issue.
After identifying the pest, we then choose the best method of control for the situation after considering the safety, effectiveness, environmental effects and cost of each method.
Why does my home need regular maintenance pest control service? Here are a few reasons why we, at Jitter Bug Pest Control, feel that regularly scheduled maintenance insect control service is necessary.
The first reason we deem regular service as necessary is that, even under perfect conditions, pest control products typically have a residual strength of 60-70 days. However, during the midst of Texas summer heat, the residual can be weakened further. After the residual strength is gone, your home is vulnerable to insect invasion and/or infestation. Also an infestation may cause arachnids to follow (spiders and scorpions to name a few), can cause frustration, and a possible health hazard for the homeowner. If an infestation does occur, a more invasive and time-consuming methods and products are necessary.
A second reason regular maintenance is necessary is a thorough inspection is performed by Jitter Bug’s trained technicians every time we are at your home. Our technicians look for conducive conditions (problem areas that insects desire and are attracted to). Some of these conditions that your home is inspected for are: standing water, leaking water outlets (the number one condition termites are attracted to), vegetation against the structure, soil level that is too high against the foundation, lawns that are unkempt, leaves and vegetation that need to be raked and removed, uncovered garbage cans, pet food left out, pet food spillage, openings around pipes or windows, areas that need proper ventilation, gutters that need to be cleaned, and many more.
The final reason regular insect control maintenance is necessary is that we implement Integrated Pest Control Management procedures customized individually for each client. Because not all insect problems are the same from home to home, we inspect each home and formulate an insect control plan designed specifically for our clients. Our service involves much more than simply granulating, spraying, and collecting payment.
Jitter Bug Pest Control Maintenance Service consists of:
Interviewing our clients in order to find out if there are any specific insect issues.
If there are specific issues, we inspect the problem areas and formulate a plan which involves products and procedures designed to eliminate the issue.
After taking care of the client’s specific issues, we then treat the interior or exterior first depending on whichever area the client desires to be completed first.
On the Interior:
We lightly mist with specially designed interior products along the baseboards, window sills, and corners. Also at any wet areas to include under kitchen sink and bathrooms.
We also treat the garage area as it is usually a major entry point for insects.
We also place glue board monitors at garage door entries.
On the Exterior:
We inspect for toys, dog or cat bowls, and other foreign objects and move them to an area that our products will not come in contact with.
We inspect for conducive conditions, ant mounds, wasps nests, and other specific problem areas.
We then treat those areas.
We use or Webster to knock down wasp nests and cob webs.
We treat ant mounds individually.
We granulate against the slab, in and around plant beds, around playscapes, and shrub areas.
We use a liquid exterior product and project it 15’ from the base of the slab and 3-5’ up the home, around windows, doors, and eaves.
Raccoons – Detection, Treatment, & Trapping
Categories: Critters & Pests
San Antonio is blessed with a lot of nature, and that includes raccoons. Raccoons are interesting little critters. They are generally pictures as nature’s little bandits since they wear that Lone Ranger mask. They also have a ringed tail that kinda reminds me of prison stripes. When it comes to mischief, raccoons can be one of the hardest critters to deal with.
RACCOONS, WHO ARE THEY?
To understand the problem, it helps to understand just who raccoons are. Raccoons are pervasive in our culture. From Davy Crocket’s coon skin cap to cute cartoon characters, they are everywhere. How did they get that way though? Mostly, it’s due to the behaviors that make them really tough pests to treat.
Raccoons are nocturnal which means they sleep during the day and are busy at night. In fact, they usually don’t come out during the day unless they are either ill or very very hungry. However, it’s incredibly dangerous for them. They are pretty low on the food chain since they are primarily scavengers.
In nature, they look for food like grubs so they have a lot of skill when it comes to scrounging. During the summer they eat insects and frogs. Come winter, they revert to eating things like plants and fruits. In urban settings like San Antonio, they are naturally attracted to trash cans and other readily available food sources like pet food containers and even bird feeders.
Easy fix: put a cinder block on top of your garbage cans. That will keep raccoons from getting into your garbage or pet food containers. There are also many different manners of straps or giant rubber bands as well as locks but a cinder block usually does the trick. It’s also cheap to free. If you don’t live in San Antonio and have your pick of trash cans, there are many “locking” trash cans on the market.
Squirrel proof bird feeders are also usually raccoon proof as well. So that’s an easy fix. If you feed feral cats or maybe feed your dogs outside, don’t leave the food out overnight otherwise you’re begging to also be feeding raccoons.
So, just where do those raccoons come from? They live in trees, usually in hollows. So, if you have a really big old tree, you may want to check if you have some freeloaders living there. They also love living in logs so check that awesome wood pile you have for your fireplace. Mind you, they are more likely to be living under a porch or a crawl space if your house has one. If those aren’t available, they have been known to find a safe place in your attic.
Easy fix: Close off your crawlspace. Ditto for your attic. They usually get through holes in the soffit or other vents that are left open. Simply covering them with chicken wire can usually be enough to discourage them.
So, how do you know you have raccoons? Raccoons usually leave a fair amount of evidence behind. They are known to tump over trash cans if they aren’t weighted down. They also leave a ton of trash behind including half eaten pieces of food strewn about. This may also be the sign of having teenagers but those are usually found inside the house. We can not treat infestations of teenagers, sorry. Raccoons are not always the most svelte of creatures so if they are getting into a crawlspace or a hole in your attic, it’s usually a pretty decent sized hole. Raccoons also just love your chimney. Ideally, you have a proper vent and spark arrestor installed at the top of your chimeny. If you don’t, you should get one.
san antonio teenager raccoon infestation
HARD LESSONS AND FIRE HAZARDS
Which brings us to the other hard lesson learned reminder: check your chimney before you start a fire. Raccoons build nests. They may have built a nest inside your chimney. So, if you start a fire without having checked your chimney first, you may be starting a much larger fire than you anticipated.
Also, if the raccoons are in the chimney at the time, they may accidentally drop down into the fireplace in their eagerness to escape the heat. It has been known to happen and if it does, you have a very serious, potentially life threatening problem on your hands. Having a licensed and bonded chimney sweep check your fireplace at the beginning of winter is a really good idea anyway.
Raccoons are actually not disease carriers for the most part. However, they have been known to carry rabies like skunks and bats. This alone is a good reason to control your raccoon population.
HOW DO YOU GET RID OF THEM
Raccoons are actually pretty easy to get rid of. If you simply follow our tips for keeping them from getting food and make it hard for them to nest, they go away. However, if they are a real problem for you, then getting a pro like Jitterbug Pest Service to live trap them is a good idea. Instead of using poisonous baits, we recommend live trapping where they can be relocated somewhere away from your house.
If you haven’t ever trapped animals, now isn’t the time to start. Leave that to the professionals please. Give us a call today at 210-653-9700 and we’ll help secure you home from raccoons. Sorry, but you’ll have to secure your house from teenagers yourself.
Rats and Mice: What’s The Difference?
Categories: Critters & Pests
It’s coming on to winter San Antonio. Just like you want to cuddle up under a blanket or by a warm fire, so do many of our furry friends. We’ve been noticing a number of people calling with reports of mice or rats in their house, but what strikes us is most people don’t know the difference. Actually, they are related much like a crocodile and an alligator are, but how to spot the difference? Read and find out.
Rats are most commonly seen as big guys. This is true. Rats are medium to large rodents but are usually hairless but they can have thick coats. They are found everywhere from sewers to forests. Since they are more lovers than fighters, they rarely come out during the day unless they are very hungry or sick. They can actually grow to being over a foot in length but that is pretty unusual.
For the rats that have hair, it’s usually a good natural camouflage color of brown, black, grew, or white. Given their territory, rats have shorter noses since they don’t route around in the ground as much as mice do. As we’ve discovered, many people actually keep rats as pets in San Antonio. Pest control people usually don’t see them as pets but everyone loves someone I guess.
Mice are smaller cousins of rats. Usually they are just 4-5 inches long from nose to tail and weigh just a few ounces. Like their rat cousins, they’ve got great natural camoflage color wise and tend to be furrier. Like rats, they are quite literally everywhere from fields to attics. Most mice rarely make it past their first birthday since they are prey animals that are eaten by a myriad of animals, including out friends the cats. If Disney taught us anything, mice are particularly clever and very social. This is actually true by the way. Mice are popular pets as well and can live 6 or more years given good food and exercise.
We hope that helps answer your questions about what the difference between rats and mice are. If you are in the San Antonio area and have any more questions, please do give us a call at 210-653-9700.
3 Reasons Why DIY Stands For Doesn’t Make Sense
Categories: How To
DIY pest control
Time, Poisons, and the Environment
We freely admit, it’s possible to never use a pest control service or an exterminator, and live bug free. However, there are quite a few reasons why you really should choose to use a pest control service. First off, why do most people choose over the counter pest solutions? Usually, the answer to that question is money. Also, people think they can save time. It’s easy enough to grab a can of Bengal or Raid at H-E-B or some roach bait boxes at CVS. However, your best value may end up being contracting a pest control company like Jitterbug, but why?
Spraying some spray when you see a roach or dropping some ant bait boxes is quick and easy. However, in order to really get the full benefit of most over the counter pest sprays, you have to spray frequently.
In theory, they are effective up to 6 months. However, the real life of a spray is about 2 weeks or so. Normally, people spray the stuff on their counters or window sills.
Problem is, you wipe your counters. Or maybe I should say, you should wipe your counters to keep them clean.
You also need to use the right chemicals. So you can’t just spray one spray. You’ll need baits, dusts, etc and it takes time to read the directions (please do) and place the chemicals out right. Every two weeks. More often if you really clean your house thoroughly. So, you can see how giving us a call and having us treat your house is actually a time saver in the long run.
2) Proper Use Of Chemicals
Another thing to consider is the proper use of chemicals. As we mention above, the life of over the counter chemicals is small compared to the professional grade treatments we use.
Frankly, this is for safety’s sake. People rarely use grocery store bug sprays properly, so giving civilians our grade of treatments would be dangerous. Different surfaces and pests require different chemicals.
Using the wrong application is worse than doing nothing at all since you’re just spreading poison everywhere. That’s not healthy. Not all bugs are genuinely pests. Sometimes, you need to make sure you allow some critters to live while others present a real danger.
Jitterbug Pest Service can help you realize which are which. We are experts in knowing which chemicals to use and the right places and times to use them.
Friendly to the earth
3) Better For The Environment
This comes back to the minimum use of the right chemicals, at the right place, and at the right time. The less chemicals we spray around, the better. The DYI approach does have you spraying frequently and more randomly than really should be done.
So given the value of your time, and using the proper chemicals in the right place and the right time, you can see why calling Jitterbug is a good idea. Give us a call today!
In fact, here are some valuable coupons to help ease the pain of your first call.
Q: Are the products you use safe?
A: They are as safe as they can be when applied in a professional manner. The products Jitterbug uses are properly labeled, measured, and applied in accordance with the Texas Department of Agriculture rules, regulations, and laws.
Q: Why do I need regular pest control service when I don’t see any bugs?
A: There are several reasons why having a pest control professional on your side is a good investment for your home. The first reason is an obvious one, to keep pests away all year long. With each season, different varieties of pests constantly seek food, water, and controlled temperatures inside your home. A perimeter pest shield is the best way to detour unwanted guests from coming inside.
Secondly, a pest control professional can help to identify conditions that are conducive to pests so that they can be corrected in order to limit the access areas that they use to enter your home.
Lastly, a good pest control professional will be able to educate the homeowner for signs of wood destroying insects.
Q: I keep my house clean, why do I still have bugs?
A: Even in the cleanest of homes pests want what we want; comfort. They want shelter, water, food, and regulated temperatures. Many pests can enter homes through even the tiniest of cracks in search of these resources. Other pests, like fleas and bedbugs, are hitchhikers and can be brought by outside sources not related to cleanliness at all. It is important to have a pest control specialist inspect your home for pest risk factors in order to keep your home as pest free as possible.
Q: Why do I have so many spiders?
A: If you have a spider problem than you more than likely also have an insect problem since spiders are predatory and feed on other insects. In order to eliminate spiders a pest control treatment is needed to rid spiders of the food source and to eliminate the spiders themselves. Cleaning the webs, sealing off entry points, and reducing lights are also good measures to take to control insects and spider problems.
Q: How do I get rid of fleas and ticks?
A: There are several steps involved to rid a home and yard of a flea and or tick problem. First step is to get your pet or pets treated by a veterinarian for fleas and ticks. Pets are the main food sources for blood-sucking insects. Secondly, call a pest control professional. Our initial service includes a flea/tick kill treatment with an integrated growth regulator designed to also kill the un-hatched eggs. In order to maintain flea/tick control, a quarterly (and sometimes monthly treatment until the problem is controlled) treatment is necessary due to the flea life/tick cycle.
Q: Does Jitterbug offer trapping services?
A: Yes, we trap all kinds of rodents including: rats, mice, raccoons, opossums, wild cats, squirrels, skunks, and armadillos.
Q: What do I look for in a pest control company?
A pest control licensed business with a Certified Applicator on staff
A member of the Better Business Bureau in great standing
The ability to be able to give an estimate before treatment begins
Expert knowledge of local pest identification and treatment options
A company that uses the best products, mixes them correctly, and applies them in an expert manner
A guarantee of service from a stable company with a great reputation